Portable Fuel Transfer Pump and Filter

Pump and Filter in Plastic Box

Have you ever siphoned fuel and got a mouth full of diesel?
Have you  ever transferred fuel to your boat with jerry cans and other fuel containers with no pouring spouts?
Need a quick and easy method to transfer fuel?
I recently made a fuel transfer pump with filter for transferring diesel fuel from tank to tank or jerry can. I needed this through out South East Asia, where the fuel most often was not clean. I also had to obtain fuel in jerry cans as fuel docks were few and far between. This necessitated pumping out of the jerry cans so that what went into my tanks, went through a filter first. Since then, I have also used it to pump fuel between tanks so that I can clean the fuel tanks from time to time. In fact, if my tank is not heavily contaminated, I use the pump system shown here to "vacuum" the bottom of the tank. The fuel filter stops all the contaminants and separates the water out.

 CAV Filter

I used a CAV filter housing similar to the one shown to the right, along with an oil tranfer pump (12V). The filters for these are readily available in most countries around the world, and quite cheap.
The oil transfer pump, which I use for the diesel fuel, has a switch on the end of the pump, which makes for easy on/off operation.
It was just a case of connecting the hoses, hose tails, and wiring with a long piece of duplex wire with alligator clips to connect to a power source. This was all placed in a plastic box for ease of handling, and to keep it "water proof" as I store it in my aft lockers, where sometimes sea water will get in.

Packed and ready for it's Lid

The filter housing was mounted to the side of the box to keep it upright.
Hoses are easily stored with the pump and the whole setup is ready to go. I used fuel line hose.
Warning! The pump I used is OK for diesel fuel, but Not  for use with petrol.
To keep the whole lot from having fuel leak into the box, I used rubber bungs on the end of the hose. You can see one on the hose in the picture to the left.
You can also use the box for a diesel rag, if you use one from time to time

The type of pump used in my fuel transfer/filter box

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Install of Fuel Filter Monitor

A while ago, I wrote here about a fuel filter monitor that was both cheap and easy to install. I have gone ahead and purchased one and here are some pictures of my install.

The picture shows the indicator installed on the outlet side of the Racor filter. It is installed upside down because there is another Racor filter above for the Gen set and has to be installed this way because there is no room for it the other way around. It still functions the same. I had to purchase the base "T" in addition to the unit and an adapter for the thread of the unit to fit NPT fittings.
Once this has proven itself, then I will purchase another for the Gen set filter.

Electronic Fuel Filter Monitor

A Filter alert system from Digivac gives advance warning of the need to change your fuel filters to prevent problems.
Their Brochure in PDF format can be found here
Compare it to a simpler product shown here on my blog earlier. Manual verses electronic.
Here's what Digi Vac had to say.....

This is a very simple breakthrough approach to avoid engine failure due to clogged fuel filters.  The Fail-Safe Filter Alert system notifies the operator of a fuel filter getting clogged.  The System uses a water proof display and a waterproof robust sensor mounted directly on the fuel filter with a clear character display, descriptive lights and a loud alarm so you can be sure what the system is telling you.  One of the worst fears of any boater is losing an engine during inclement weather, especially when making landfall in inclement or difficult conditions such as a narrow rock lined inlet.  Any engine failure could mean an unhappy boating experience and potentially the loss of the boat.  This system is one way to avoid the common causes of engine failure by monitoring fuel filter health.

The DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert System Description:

•  A straightforward vacuum instrument designed to detect fuel filter degradation and alert the operator—so action can be taken before an engine failure. 

• Audible and Visual Alarm to Alert you to a problem before you reach failure point—to help avoid costly repairs and engine failure

 
Why use the DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert System?

• If you have the information that your engines are about to fail, you can take evasive action to avoid a dangerous engine failure in a crowded seaway during deteriorating weather.
•  This system enables you to increase operating safety margins by giving you more time to make better decisions about the vessel.
• Clogged fuel filters are responsible for entirely too many engine failures (see references). 
• The DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert System can monitor the function of the filters through the use of a robust vacuum sensor placed between the filter element and the engine. 
• The sensor combined with the visual feedback presented by the display allows the operator to see the gradual degradation of the filter thus allowing plenty of time for corrective maintenance. 

 
How does the The DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert System Work?
The DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert System works on the principal of maintaining fuel flow.  In a healthy fuel system, the engine low pressure pump will pull fuel from the tank through a filter.  As the filter does its job and collects contaminants, the filter flow is reduced.  As the flow is reduced, the lift pump has to work harder to pull fuel to the engine.  There is a point where the filter is too clogged to support the flow necessary for the running of the engine.  When there is not enough fuel flow, the engine first loses power then stops.  Unfortunately, a filter is very likely to clog in precisely the kind of situation when you need a reliable running engine the most.  When rough seas toss the boat, they also mix-up the contents of the fuel tank, and more contaminants are likely to find their way to the fuel filter resulting in engine degredation and failure.
How is the DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert System Different?
Before this solution, one of the only ways to get the filter pressure levels to the cockpit involved extending the very sensitive closed diesel fuel system 10-50 feet.  Extending the fuel system up to the cockpit can add significant risk to the fuel system through increased likelihood of air leaks that could cause an engine failure.  Additionally, it would require the operator to constantly monitor the gauge.   The DigiVac 500 adds close to zero risk of any air intruding the system since it replaces the T-Handle (which comes standard with Racor 500, 900 and 1000) with a a stainless steel double walled hermetically sealed sensor.  Even if the sensor fails, the fuel system will not be exposed to air.  Additionally, the DigiVac Fail-Safe Filter Alert has multiple visual indications and a loud siren to notify of a dirty filter that could stop the engine.   

The DigiVac model 500 not only gives a remote indication, but also shows a trend of a filter getting clogged.  Healthy systems show up as “all green”, marginal systems show up as “all yellow” and systems that are in danger of starving the engine are “in the red” and a loud auditory sound would be activated.  Before the model 500, an operator would have to choose a filter replacement interval that would keep the engine running, and frequently visually inspect the engine and filter for debris in the fuel bowls as an indication that the filters may be marginal.  The Fail-Safe alert allows the operator to constantly monitor the filter status while at the helm, and while the engines are powering. 
The DigiVac Model 500 Fail-Safe Filter Alert enables the operator to have one additional key input to the engine's health and allows the operator to focus on other critical safety factors instead of fear that the next rough see kicks up enough muck to stops the  boat in a crowded sea way.

Fuel Filter Indicator

 One of the issues with any fuel filtration system is that you never know exactly when the filters need replacing or are restricted in some way. One method is to install a drag gauge into the system which will show just how much 'suck' there is in the vacuum side of the pump, the greater the drag, the higher the reading and thus more the fuel fuel flow and filters are clogged. It is a great system but comes at a price and complications which many recreational boat owners can do without. A simpler solution is the fuel flow service indicator from Racor. Essentially this simple but effective bit of kit is teed into the fuel line on the vacuum side of the line between the filter and the pump. As the vacuum increases a yellow disc is sucked down in the clear bowl. While the disc is in the green sector all is well but as the pump has to suck harder as the fuel filter becomes blocked it enters the red sector indicating the need for a filter change. I should add that the disc stays at the highest setting achieved even after the engine is shut down so it is possible to monitor the performance of the filters even when the engine is off and cold. Once filters have been changed the operator merely has to press the button on the top of the unit and the disc resets. The cost is a very sensible $60 and can be had from West Marine and other such suppliers.

Fuel Level Sender Units & Filling Cap

In cruising, you travel from country to counrty where environmental laws are increasingly becoming more strict. But we all want to look after the environment, right? Fuel spills are a serious mater and there are various ways to minimize these. Also, when under way, one sometimes has to top off the fuel tanks from Gerry jugs. This is made all the more harder if one has to do this on deck with rain or sea water washing over the deck.
(In one passage we carried 17, five gallon Gerry Jugs as well as our full 100 gallon tankage. We used all but 25 gallons in that passage in which we also endured a BIG storm. This system helped to do fuel transfer much easier, when being on deck was life threatening)

We installed, on each fuel tank, a filler cap, and while we were at it, installed a sender unit for fuel gauges. These were purchased through WEMA , a company that supplies sender units. As an aside, we also installed one of their special sender units on a holding tank; but have to report I'm less than happy with it due to it having to be cleaned periodically. A task I don't enjoy. But the Fuel sender units have been flawless and I can recommend them.

To cut the holes for the fittings, we used a regular hole saw found at most hardware stores, using some cutting fluid to help preserve the hole saw. I think we got about 5 holes cut before I had to purchase a new hole saw, which was cheaper than getting them plasma cut. Each item was sealed with an RTV automotive cement which formed the gasket and was impervious to diesel.
Now, I fuel the tanks from inside the boat to minimise the potential for a fuel spill into the ocean. The same applies with filling from gerry jugs. And of course, I have a very quick way now of checking how much fuel I have without the need to "dip" the tanks. A task which requires getting under the floor boards if done.

Generator Shut Off Mod.

UPDATE
See below for original shut off mod.
We have in fact removed this mod. The main cause of the generator not shuting down was it has a protection circuit to protect itself should it slightly be overheated. Once you push the shut down button, it would continue to run with no load to help itself cool down before shuting down. In addition to our heat exchanger being clogged, we found some gasket material behind the sacrificial anode which bolts to the side of the generator casing seen bottom left on the photo to the above. This clogged the hose delivering water to the heat exchanger. The generator also has a high temperature shut down protection and it was after replacing the heat exchanger we had a high temperature shut down and that's when I found the additional blockage. The gasket material comes from the gasket on the end plate of the generator housing. I have a new gasket ready to replace for next season. The generator has raw water come via the RW pump and goes through the generator casing before going to the heat exchanger to pick up heat from the fresh water cooling from the engine. New Fischer Panda's have the cooling of both the generator housing, and the engine, cooled by fresh water and the sea water just passes through the heat exchanger. Due to potential corrosion I will be changing my FP next year to reflect the way FP now does it's cooling. Keep a watch out for that blog around April 2013.

Generator Shut Off Mod 2011
We have a Fischer Panda Generator  that has for some time had a shut down problem. i.e. It won't shut down from the control panel. A careful  inspection of the shutoff solenoid found no issues and the problem only presented when the unit had been running for some hours. In frustration, I used the valve at the fuel manifold to eventually have the generator shut down by starving it of fuel. However, because of the location of the valve, this would often take 5 minutes or there about. A new shut off solenoid was over $200USD and was no guarantee that it would fix the problem (it could be an electronic control module issue). Here's what I did.
I procured a fuel/gas solenoid valve off ebay for about $30USD and inserted it between the secondary fuel filter and the units own shut off solenoid. That is marked in the above photo with some red wire rapped around it.

The picture to the right shows a close up picture of that shut off solenoid.

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There was not much room to mount the new shut off solenoid. The whole unit is encased in a sound proof  casing. I had to find a convenient location to mount the new unit. I used an area just under the existing solenoid, with the intention that if it didn't work, I could reverse everything back to the way it was. The unit was secured with cable ties and with a strip of rubber to prevent metal to metal contact and abrasion. I had a spare switch for this solenoid on a switch panel and wired that in to activate/de-activate the unit.

The picture to the left shows the finished installation, and while it could be a little more aesthetically pleasing, it is fully functional. ( After all, I'm in the Pacific Islands, where nothing is available to complete some projects). the generator now shuts down in less than 5 seconds when the solenoid is turned off. I suspect the OEM part is faulty  but who wants to pay over $200USD to fix that.
Cost; $30USD for the unit. Fuel hose and hose clips and wiring, I carried as spares. About 3 hours work.