Adapting Old Water Pipe to New

On my boat, I have half inch water pipe made from a "plastic" and flexible material. Unfortunately, this is now outdated, with most boats now using 15mm flexible pipe. This presents problems with adapting the old to the new. Also, the fittings used to connect this pipe, (black elbow to left) are no longer available and sometimes come apart.
In New Zealand they have a 12.5mm pipe with push in fittings. You would think the half inch pipe might fit...., but no, it doesn't.
So here's how I have over come this problem...
Fortunately this plastic pipe is similar in size to copper half inch pipe and the compression fittings are available at most plumbing hardware stores.

To the right is a photo of old and new fittings used to attach to the faucet at the sink.

To the left is the new compression fitting disassembled. To the inside, is a rubber ring and star washer to grip the pipe.

Compare the above photo to the plastic one to the right. They work in a very similar fashion.

The fittings come in a number of arrangements. I bought a straight connector, a "T", and end threaded adapter.

To the right, the nut goes on first, then the star washer, followed by the rubber washer. Once the pipe is inserted into the fitting, the nut is screwed down to secure the pipe.

Now, the fitting, made for copper pipe, doesn't quite fit the plastic pipe, so a little modification has to be done.
First, use a dremel stone to slightly enlarge the hole in the center of the compression nut so that it slides over the plastic pipe. It only needs a "human hair" thickness taken off.

The pipe also has to fit the fitting. This requires a little sanding on the end so the pipe fits, snugly.
You can see that, in the photo to the right.

When assembling, slide the fitting onto the end of the pipe and mark with a felt pen. Slide off the fitting and then with the nut first, slide on the star washer with the points towards the yet to be fitted copper fitting. Slide this on till just past the pen line so that when the rubber washer is placed, it is is pushed on till just past the pen line.

To the right is the fitting about to have the nut screwed on to make the compression. Once that is done, regular plumbing fittings can be attached.

I've also had success with another type of compression fitting using a copper compression sleeve shown to the left. However, on occasion, some of these have leaked due to the copper sleeve not being perfectly aligned before compression. One has to remove a short piece of the pipe, (because the compressed sleeve is almost impossible to get off) and place a new compression sleeve on and make sure it is seated correctly before tightening up. It seems to me, the compression fitting with the rubber washer is a better fit and can be reused if one has to undo the nut.

Another method, show to the right is to get a hose tail with a plumbing threaded end, and attach with a suitable hose clip , or for a more secure fitting, use the wire tightener, and it's use can be viewed here.

Shower Mixers

 Our shower taps (hot and cold) created our mixer for our shower. However, over time they became difficult to turn on and off. That's them in the picture to the left.
 In deciding what to replace with, I decided on a lever mixer, but wasn't sure about that because of the limited space, and felt it was going to impinge upon my washing machine.  Conventional household mixers, I thought were just a bit to big. Then I came across these tiny mixers in my chandler store in NZ. Instantly, I knew they would do the job.

To the right, here's what that lever mixer looked like fitted.

And to the left, the tiny mixer. So much easier to turn on and off and get the temperature right for our shower. I don't know where else you could get these; try your local chandler or plumber supplies.

Hose Clamp Safety Clip

You know the pain!
If you work on boats, cars, trucks or anywhere else hose clamps are in use, professional or do-it-yourselfer, at one time or another you will end up being injured by the tail end of a hose clamp. You know, the end sticking out 2—3 inches past the screw that catches your cloths or scrapes down the back of your hand or arm. We all have the scars.
Now there is a real solution to the problems created by over-sized hose clamps. The Clamp Clip™ is patented, made of stainless steel, and is designed to hold down the free end of a hose clamp.
The Clamp Clip™ is easy to install. On hose clamps already in use, simply loosen the hose clamp, snap on a Clamp Clip™, slide it over the free end of the hose clamp and re-tighten.
Now slide over to their website here, to read the rest, or order some.

Sump Box for the Bilge

The people over at Carbo Rico_Tiburon36 have built a very nice sump box here's how they did it..........
I needed to add a separate sump to our grey water system. I have a store bought sump from Rule in the forward end of the bilge for the head and shower, but needed one to handle everything else including it. At a $100 bucks or more for one of these plastic boxes, I figured I could make one for a lot less.
Here is how I did it. You can build one too. It's fairly simple. I must add I had some scrap Plexiglas already. I bought the 500 gph bilge pump on ebay. The rest was scrap pieces of marine plywood.

Box measure 11x11x6 inches. It is 1/2 inch ply with 3/4 x 1 inch around the inside for a lip to help seal it and give a place to mount the bolts. The plastic screen inside is actually from a craft store. It is used for some kind of needle work.

Build the box. Then give it several coats of thinned epoxy inside and out. Save money, Don't buy CPES epoxy, just cut your already mixed epoxy with some MEK (NOT MEKP), thin till it's just a little thicker than water, almost half and half mix. MEK is just like Acetone, but evaporates much slower. Let it cure between coats, but put the first 2 coats on while still green. Sand for the last coat and thin it only a little or maybe not at all. You'll know you have enough coats when it is very shiny when finished.

Side note; this little trick will help you fix rotted post and the like without buying special epoxy. I actually apply it to porch post and columns before installing them. Then they never rot.

I used 1/4 inch bolts for the lid. Insert them as you make the box.

From Sump

Fit Plexiglas lid.

From Sump

Install pump and float switch.

From Sump

Install all the fittings in the box and screen plus the fuse holder outside.

From Sump

From Sump

Then install it. I eliminated 12 thru hulls with these two sumps. Now I only have 3 thru hulls.
I mounted it to the bilge with some stainless brackets I had. Screw them to the side of the box, make some pads that can be epoxied to the bilge , with bolts so that the whole thing is removable.
It is under the engine, but hopefully it will be somewhat accessible.

Quick Fit Coupling

The company at flow-rite.com has this interesting hose quick connect/disconnect system. Their are many places on a boat where this sort of device can make life simpler. I use a similar device for my bilge pumps which helps me get them quickly out of the bilge if they need servicing. Looks like a great product.



Qwik-Lok is a quick disconnect marine plumbing system and method that can provide increased productivity, higher quality and value while simultaneously reducing costs. The heart of the Qwik-Lok system is the innovative Qwik-Lok socket that fits industry standard marine hose in popular 3/4" and 1-1/8" sizes. Qwik-Lok’s numerous benefits make it much more than just a quick disconnect plumbing system.

Qwik-Lok fittings are installed in place of standard barbed fittings. Zero learning curve required. Qwik-Lok sockets are installed to the hose ends whether it’s pre-assembled in our factory or done at the boat or on the work bench. No more crimping or tightening a hose clamp at arms length in hard to reach areas. Only learning curve here is to get used to how easy life can be.
With the locking ring back out of the locked position and into the neutral position, simply push that end of the hose onto the fitting until the socket snaps into place, then push the locking ring into the latch and locked position.
To remove, just grasp the same locking ring and pull. The latches will automatically disengage and the hose will be free. The only tools you need are one thumb and forefinger.