Chain Stripper Modification

Bent stripper compared to new stripper

Last year I had a guest on board who was trying to be helpful and undertake some of the chores on the boat. He was going through the anchoring process and while anchoring, I (he) found a deficiency in my capstan while easing out chain as one puts on the snubber.
Normally, when bringing in the chain with the capstan, a stripper is in place to ensure the chain comes off the capstan and goes down the Hawse pipe. Otherwise, it can get caught in the gypsy (wildcat in the USA) and wind up the chain around itself. Easing chain out, say when anchoring, the weight of the chain is usually sufficient to take the chain of the capstan gypsy. But in my case, my guest was not aware of the potential issue and as he eased the chain out while holding tension on the snubber line, the chain stayed in the gypsy and bent the chain stripper on the opposing side. You can see the bent stainless stripper above.

Plastic compared to SS

We were in the middle of "nowhere" and there was no way I could straighten that stainless. So what to do? I used one of my wife's "polyplastic" chopping boards and cut it up to make a plastic, but temporary chain stripper. While getting everything ready, including a cardboard template, I decided to design it so it was able to strip the chain whether it was coming in, or going out. I used both hacksaw and Dremel for fashioning the plastic stripper and the thing worked so well, it stayed on for the whole cruising season (6 months). I improved the cardboard cut out a little and had a piece of 6mm stainless laser cut when I went home.

Plastic stripper in place

New SS stripper to replace plastic in place

Home Handyman Aluminium Repair

Have you ever had an aluminum repair or 'thing" you wanted to make, but thought you had to use a TIG welder, which you don't have, and end up taking it to someone who has?
Then try this product; HTS2000


Other products (rods) that do a similar job are Durafix and Alladdin 3 in 1. Shop around with the products to get the best price. I've heard of prices from $5 to $60 per pound for very similar products

All of these rods are aluminum brazing rods and they are made basically from aluminum and zinc
You can use propane, oxy/propane, oxy/ acet. The smaller and thinner the pieces, the better it is to stay away from the O/A and use the mapp (preferred) or propane unless you have the correct size tips as the O/A can get to the melt temp really quickly. Use a very fine tip (00 or 0) when working with 1/8" or thinner material with O/A.

If you can braze then you can use this product.

Don't use this product on high temperature items. Even though it says you can do cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds, I wouldn't. Use a TIG instead.

And then of course there is stainless steel brazing rod, of which there are a few varieties. Most all contain silver as one of the alloys. You can do the search to find out what's out there.

These items lend themselves to emergency repairs on a boat, or a DIY project that doesn't need the expense of a TIG welder. You would have to make a decision as to whether a TIG is required or brazing will do. Keep in mind that if the brazing doesn't work, and you have to use TIG, all the brazing work will need to be ground out, before you can use the TIG. 

My intention for my next cruising season, is to carry a propane torch that will run off the BBQ gas tank, and some of these rods for emergency repair. Any comments?