Light Upgrade

Original non working light

We have had a florescent light inverter/ballast fail on us and had a number of options to choose from. My first thought was to change the whole light structure to a more modern fitting, but was eventually convinced by my wife that to do so, was taking from the character of the boat. A new light could have been procured from the USA, but I was still looking for a better light that uses less power. Here's what I did to keep both the orginal light fixture, but upgrade the light that consumes less power.

I removed the light fixture and purchased a LED strip light that would fit the light fitting. 

New LED lights ready to be fitted.

I removed the the two ends for the florescent tube to make way for the new LED strip. I applied double sided tape used to attach mirrors to walls etc, to secure the LED strip and the switch, to the old light fitting. It was important to keep the original switch as it contained the electronics which helps with the LED strip to function efficiently.

Removal of the florescent ends needed

New LED light fitted.

The refitted unit was wired so that the original switch on the side was the main means of turning the unit on . The inline switch supplied with the LED strip was left on and fitted inside the light fixture. My wife has  declared the light very good, and now wants me to convert another light so she can do fine needle work.

Finished light.

Time to complete was about 40 minutes and the LED strip procured locally in New Zealand for about $37USD 

Bug Screens

We had soft mesh covers, with bug mesh screen, made for the out side of our hatches. The problem with these, was when it started to rain we had to rush out side to remove them so we could close the hatches; otherwise the mesh would get stuck in the hatches as we closed them. So, having seen this idea on another boat, I copied the design to suit my boat. In essense, we could use the bug screens from inside the boat and close the hatches when it rains without stepping outside.

 First, I made my wooden frame to match each hatch surround inside the boat. On the back side of the frame, I  routed a 5mm groove in a square pattern. I used a glazing rubber which is 5.5mm in diameter with a hole through the middle. It also had a row of longitudinal ridges on the outside for gripping. This allowed the rubber to be compressed down from 5.5mm to about 4.5 mm. A polyurathane was applied to the frame, front and back.
I placed the mesh over the frame with about an inch extra on the dimensions for each side of the routed groove. Starting at one side, I pushed the glazing rubber into the groove with the mesh. Once done, I went to the other side and as I pushed it in, the mesh starts to tighten up. With the remaining mesh still exposed out of the groove, I ran a sharp blade along the edge, of the outside of the groove, to trim off the mesh.

Finished product. Note rain on hatch!

Hinges were applied to the side of the frame, opposite the levers for the hatch. In the corners, to secure the bug screen up, a couple of aluminum triangular plates were secured with one screw and allowed to pivot to allow the fame to swing down on the hinges. Just above the closed frame, a strip of half inch x half inch foam strip was applied to the inside of the hatch surrond. This seals against the closed frame to prevent any small bugs getting down the side of the frame and prevents the pushing inwards of the frame.

Holding Tank Tanksaver

While pumping out my holding tank, I heard a crackling sound of fiberglass. Stopping the pump out, I noticed the holding tank was starting to implode and the fault was a blocked vent line. To prevent a disaster happening in the future, I installed two Tanksavers from Sealand. These offer a one way valve which will open if it detects too much vacuum inside the tank. With those big dockside suction units, this could be the one thing that could save your tanks.


A three inch hole saw and a Tanksaver kit from sealand costing about $20 is required.

 Find a flat surface on your holding tank top surface and drill the 3 inch hole. Push in the rubber ring and then coat the valve insert with dish washing liquid and push in. That's all there is to it. Just a ten minute job on each tank.

Hole drilled and rubber insert placed

Finished product

What to do with Dive Tanks on the Boat

Those pesky dive tanks are never easily stowed on a sailing vessel and so I decided to have a suitable bracket made up. This one clamps to the lower railing near the stern and secures both bottles with velcro. I used a couple of Bimini clamps and had them welded to the  stainless bracket made from scraps of ss left over in the workshop. All welding done with a TIG welder and I did my best to polish the stainless. I'm still learning on that aspect. Neat and tidy.  Cost $0.00 but 8hrs of labor. Many thanks to Tim for his help

Stove Top Recondition

This attempt at controlling the rust was unsuccessful. I have left the post here as an example of how the things we do, don't always go to plan. A newer post tells of how I have now chromed the stove tops to see if that will keep the rust at bay.
The stove top plates on our Force 10 stove, has, over the years become rusty and leaves the rust on top of the stainless stove. Unable to get replacements, I ground all remaining paint off and buffed the rust off; then using  a paint designed for heat (fire boxes and chimneys ) I repainted the plates and then following the instructions, baked the item for an hour at 250 degrees C. This will initially give off fumes. Best done in an old oven outside or the BBQ. It seems after a couple of months use, it has worked; and I have a spare can in case we need to readdress the issue in a year or so