Weather App for your iPad and iNavX

In traveling around the world, most sailors think of the weather a lot when making passage.  There are various methods to obtain that weather and I'm presenting here Weather 4D.
Whats so interesting for me is that it is another iApp which works on the iPad and is integrated with one of my favourite navigation software iNavX. Not only that, the details of that weather can be obtained by email.
Without further ado, i_Marine apps has a review which can be found here. I've started his review for you with the most pertinent details, but do go over to i_Marine apps to read his full review.

If you spend anytime on the water you become very aware of the weather. I am always looking for tools to help me keep safe while on the water. Weather4D Pro will help even the novice become a professional weatherman. This app brings all the weather you will ever want into one app and allows you to display and analyze weather patterns and systems all over the world. The app's intuitive interface will make it easy to get the latest weather for your area and see predictions up to 8 days out.

 Olivier Bouyssou is the mastermind and developer of the Weather4D PRO app.  He has recently updated it to a Pro model. Version 1.1.1 just came out February 5th and is jam packed with tons of new features and upgrades your going to love.

I previously reviewed the Weather4D app last April and have used it some over the summer. This version seems to be more targeted towards the nautical user who wants to do weather routing on longer passages across the worlds oceans. The integration and importing of GPS routes into the display allows this. If you don't need these routing features purchase Weather4D. Additional GRIB file options of importing, copying, saving and opening in other programs gives you more flexibility to use the weather files. You can also retrieve GRIB files via the Iridium AxcessPoint app with a satellite phone (and other email methods).

Weather  Data Features:
Cloud cover
CAPE (Convective Available Potential Energy)
Snow, Rain
Pressure
Wind direction and speed (10 meters above ground)
Temperature (2 meters above ground)
Waves, height, direction and period

Forecast Models Features:
Up to 8 day forecast
Data intervals 3, 12, 24hr
Global Coverage
Resolution .5, 1 and 2 degrees
Data updated every 6 hours

Display Features: 
GRIB file import in .rgb,grb.gz, Grb.bz2
Share GRIB files through the Open In" feature
Worldwide weather
Zonal setup
Temperature color transparency overlays
Isobar transparency overlays
Wind color and transparency overlays
Precipitation amount overlay
Adjustable cloud cover transparency
Wave transparency overlays
Download GRIB files through Iridium phones
Prediction passage of Iridium satellites
Request GRIB files with SailDocs by mail
Import of KML route files from iNavX for display on the forecasts

I ran the app on my iPad and I have to say the bigger screen makes it easier to see all the great features. The main displays is rich is color and detail and it provides the user a wealth of information.
Continued on i_Marine apps ...........

Strike Release Rudder

A very interesting rudder stock which is what I have been thinking of for the day I build my Trimaran. Maneuvering a shoal draft vessel needs this kind of device when maneuvering in dirty water or areas with coral heads and reefs, such as in the islands; and where charting is poor or suspect. Take a look.....

The new Sea Sure Strike Release catamaran rudder stock is the result of a back-to-basics, fundamental design review carried out by leading sailors and engineers. The key design criteria were that the new stock should be: Lighter, Stronger, Stiffer, work better and be more reliable than any existing catamaran stocks on the market.
The new stock meets all of these criteria whilst looking fantastic.

Features;
1. Dual action strike release with no moving parts
2. Off centre pivots, calculated using Ackerman theory
3. Lightweight triple formed Aluminium body for strength and stiffness
4. Latest computer modelling techniques used throughout design process

Manufacturers web site is here

And here is another video for you interest, on the same principle of strike release

Battery Replacement in Older 406 EPIRB's.

What do you do with an older 406 EPIRB who's battery needs replacing? For some, it is a simple issue of getting the battery replaced; but for others (when the unit is older than 10yrs), the EPIRB is no longer serviceable and agents will no longer service them. They say that once an EPIRB is over 10 years old, the unit is obsolete. This exert was taken from a Practical Sailor article and is reproduced below.
"Upon completion of the successful testing I was informed that after the battery theoretically expires in July of 2011, they will not be able to install a new battery as ACR will not permit this, the contention being that the EPIRB has lived out it’s useful life as a piece of electronic gear and therefore can no longer be placed in service any longer. If I wish to continue having an EPIRB aboard my vessel, I will need to purchase a new unit!"
I can't understand why the electronics date. If it still tests OK and is working, why are we making these units obsolete?  It's so these rip off dealers can sell us more EPIRB"s. That's why! :-D
Replacing batteries in these units is not for you average handy man for the most part. In fact, even if you were to replace the batteries (assuming you get the right ones), you still miss out on the service center, complete test of the unit. Often to the same standard that new one's are tested to as they run the assembly line.  Having said that, it is possible to replace the batteries yourself, provided you get the correct one's. Remember, your life may one day depend on this device. Get this wrong and well........ Please, if you are not up to this, send your unit in for the service or buy a new one.
We are discovering, 1. Our EPIRB's (2 of them on "Solace"{406's}) will no longer be able to have their battery replaced due to there age. and 2. The cost of new ones has reduced significantly so that it can often be cheaper to buy a new one. So for us, we will buy new one's and leave the old one's on board as "back up" .
So, below is an description of how to change the batteries on an McMurdo E3 EPIRB. The limiting factor to start with may be your ability to source the battery kit from a McMurdo dealer. Usually, if supplied, it is done with all responsibility resting with  purchaser. Good luck!!
AND a uTube on the change of batteries on another type of 406 EPIRB with hydrostatic release.
Does anyone else have a project they can direct me to, on changing batteries on a EPIRB? What about dealers who will sell the battery kits for EPIRB's? Please send any details you have to the email in the header, or leave a comment below this post. TIA

 Changing McMurdo E3 EPIRB Battery

Recently, I have to change an expired McMurdo E3 EPIRB battery. I never changed an EPIRB battery before but after understanding its internal structure, I am confident enough to try for the first time.

The replacement kit comes with a battery unit, a gasket, a silica gel package, new battery expiry date sticker and 8 pieces of new screws.

This is how the new gasket looks like. It is used to replace the existing gasket on the top/antenna housing

The screws comes with o-ring to ensure watertight integrity to the EPIRB unit

First of all, remove all the holding down screws around the housing useng a flat face screwdriver. Total of 6 screws if not mistaken.

There are 2 screws hidden behind the lanyard. Pull the lanyard holder to reveal the screws ports (2)

After removing all the screws, gently pull up the top/antenna housing to disengage it from the lower part of the unit. The printed circuit board can be seen after the top housing been removed.
The printed circuit board is been secured with 3 screws

Use the Philips screwdriver to remove the centre screw. Extra precaution not to lose the washer below the screw














Then remove the spacers by either removing screws from the bottom of the spacers or loosen the spacers with finger. There are washers below the spacers and should be careful so not to lose the washers

Slightly lift up the circuit board gently. The battery unit can be seen at the bottom of the printed circuit board.

Try to locate this 2 connections attached to the printed circuit board. One of the connection is to the battery unit and the other one is to the unit test button. Gently disengage the connectors from the printed circuit board.

Note there is an old silica gel package (white package) at the bottom of the printed circuit board.

Remove the previous silica gel and replace it with the new one which comes with the replacement kit. Use the double sided adhesive tape to ensure the new silica gel glued to the area. The purpose of the silica gel is to keep the internal area dry from moisture

With the printed circuit board removed, the battery unit is visible underneath it

Use a narrow head pliers to loosen the bolt that is securing the battery unit. There is a washer below the nut and be careful not to lose it.

After the nut is removed, the battery will slide out easily. There is a tiny shaft in the middle that secure the battery unit.

Change the gasket for the top/antenna housing

Reassembled it in the reverse order. Once it is reassembled, push and hold the test button for 10 seconds to ensure the EPIRB unit is in working condition and able to transmit.

Lastly, put on the new battery expiry date sticker on the EPIRB unit. The battery has a lifespan of 5 years.

Also the EPIRB casing should be updated with the new battery expiry date sticker.

Practical sailor blurb
We received the letter below yesterday from Practical Sailor reader Arnold Rowe. He was kind enough to let us share it (with some minor edits of his well-expressed and understandable ire), with the hopes of raising awareness of the limited service life of 406 EPIRBs. Having had a similar experience years ago with the torpedo-sized RLB23 (which set me back more than a $1,000 in the ’90s) I can sympathize. The now obsolete RLB23 is officially consigned to Practical Sailor’s Gear Graveyard, and I expect a series of other newly obsolete EPIRBs to join it.

As we move forward with Ralph Naranjo’s report on Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) in the April issue of Practical Sailor magazine, we’ll also look at effective service life. Battery life has become an even more critical issue these days as ACR—and I assume other makers will follow suit—add non-emergency functions to their PLBs, like the AquaLink View PLB . According to ACR Electronics , the new unit is designed with fixed limits for non-distress messaging and tests, so that using the non-distress features will not tap into the required reserve battery life for distress alerting. We look forward to testing this product and hearing readers’ take on the messaging feature, as it raises some important questions regarding the purpose of emergency signaling devices.
By the way, some safety equipment dealers are offering trade-ins on old ACR EPIRBs, which should help ease the financial pain of replacement. According to Mr. Rowe, Avalon Rafts is one of them.
Finally, I’ll emphasize here again that it is very important that owners of EPIRBs routinely drop in at the NOAA beacon registration website to make sure all their data is correct and up to date:

Dear Practical Sailor,
I own an ACR Satellite 406 EPIRB, Product No. 2758, Category II/Class 2.  This unit is manually deployable. A date stamped on the side of the unit reads Sept 15, 1997. A sticker on the same side reads Serial No 5990, Date: 9605.
On April 13, 2006, I had the battery in this EPIRB replaced at my local ACR service center at a cost of $222.38. A statement on the back of the EPIRB reads “Battery must be replaced after emergency use or by: 07/2011.”
Yesterday I happened to be in my local ACR service center and they kindly checked out my EPIRB using their computer based system.  It immediately passed all tests with flying colors.
Upon completion of the successful testing I was informed that after the battery theoretically expires in July of 2011, they will not be able to install a new battery as ACR will not permit this, the contention being that the EPIRB has lived out it’s useful life as a piece of electronic gear and therefore can no longer be placed in service any longer. If I wish to continue having an EPIRB aboard my vessel, I will need to purchase a new unit!
My EPIRB is in absolute pristine condition.  I am perfectly pleased with my existing EPIRB and wish to keep it for many years to come.  Purchasing an EPIRB was not a trivial initial investment and I find it irritating that I am forced to chuck a perfectly adequate piece of gear at the manufacture’s whim.
Arnold Rowe
Riverside, Calif.

New, Flexible Solar Panels

Three Sheets Northwest had this to say about some new solar panels.

One of the more interesting products we saw at the Seattle Boat Show was the flexible, super-thin, lightweight solar panels made by Italian company Solbian.

The Solbianflex Solar Panels, which were at the show for the first time this year, are about as thin as a flexible cutting board and weigh between 1.76 and 5.17 pounds, a fraction of the weight of the bulky, heavy panels typically seen on boats.

But what intrigued me the most is that the panels can be ordered with zippers that attach to biminis and dodgers, making for easy installation without the need for heavy, expensive mounting frames. The panels can also be mounted with grommets and lashed down on decks, though situating them in high-traffic areas is not recommended.

The high-power versions of the panels are advertised as the lightest and highest output solar panels on the market, with a reported 22.5 percent efficiency — meaning they convert that much energy in sunlight into electricity.

Solbian began making the panels a few years ago and designed them as a lightweight, rugged option for offshore racing, Schwab said. They cost more than conventional solar panels, ranging from $400 to $1,175 depending on size and energy output, but Schwab said the cost is more than offset by the savings on mounting equipment.

The product’s West Coast distributor, Ed Foster, said he sold more than half a dozen of the panels during the Seattle show.

Pricing etc can be seen here from  Bruce Schwab rigging services

Gasket Making

In many situations you may need or want to make your own gaskets for your boat's engine or other equipment. It may be difficult to find a gasket for an older engine, especially when you're cruising and the need arises suddenly. You may also enjoy doing it yourself and saving money.
This photo shows the inside of a cover plate for a 1980 Paragon transmission, which was installed with certain Yanmar and Westerbeke marine diesel engines. The Paragon company no longer exists, and parts can be difficult or possibly impossible to find. In this case, this sailboat owner needed to replace the original paper gasket between this cover and the transmission case, which had disintegrated when he opened the transmission cover to make a clutch adjustment.

Gasket material is readily available at almost all automobile parts stores and costs little. Buy the type of material that most closely matches the original gasket (whether paper, cork, rubber, or some other material). In most cases it won't matter if the gasket is a little thicker than the original, but be sure it meets the needed specifications (i.e., that it will stand up to engine heat or fluids, etc.).
In this photo, the boat owner chose a thick paper gasket with a light adhesive backing that will make it easier to mount the completed gasket.
The first step is to obtain an accurate outline of the gasket from the shape of the surface on which the gasket will lie. A simple way to do this is place the object (like this tranmission cover plate) on the gasket material and lightly tap it with a mallet.

If you look carefully at this photo, you can see the indentation made in the paper gasket by the edges of the plate when tapped with the rubber mallet. Often you can simply cut along these edge lines with sharp scissors, but this owner decided also to outline the outside edge with a market to make the cutting easier.
Sometimes, especially with thinner gasket paper and sharp metal edges of the piece to be gasketed, the tapping actually cuts through the gasket paper so that cutting with scissors is not needed at all.

Here is the gasket after it has been cut to fit the outlined edges of this transmission cover. (The gasket looks slightly smaller than the cover because of the camera's foreshortening due to the height of the metal cover.)
Note that in this case, using thick gasket material, the edges of the gasket are a bit rough from the scissoring, which is not usually an issue with thinner paper gaskets or those made of other materials. If this happens to you, be sure to neaten up the gasket's inside edges with a sharp knife before installation to ensure small bits do not break loose and fall into the engine or other part.
Overall, making your own gaskets is more satisfactory than using a silicon paste that hardens into a gasket after being applied to the edges. It is very easy to apply too much silicon, resulting in extra material inside the part that can break free and clog up the works, or to have gaps that allow fluid leakage. A well-made gasket of the right material prevents such problems and takes only a few minutes to create.